Caesarea by the Sea

Caesarea by the Sea

During his reign as a governor in the Roman empire, Herod the Great turned Caesarea from a simple fishing village into a large, prosperous sea port. He was called “the Great Builder” by some, because he undertook amazing construction projects in this Mediterranean port city. Strategically positioned on the Via Mares (the way of the sea) — the major commerce highway of the ancient world connecting Africa, Europe and Asia; an intercontinental bridge — Caesarea became a booming center of commerce.

Herod built a palace there — where Paul was imprisoned after standing before Felix and Aggripa in Acts 24 and 25. We toured the ruins of this palace, which jutted out into the sea, seeing among other things the in-ground stone swimming pool he’d built in the residence area of the palace. We sat in the theater where Paul likely presented his testimony before Roman officials. We saw the Hippodrome, where horse races and gladiator matches took place. We saw where Herod built a temple using the latest in Roman technology in arch building (this was right after they invented the keystone, which was the secret of the strength of the Roman arch). And we saw the site of the roman bath houses built by Herod. And we saw the site of the great water break and harbor Herod built, using cement for the first time in history.

And of course we saw the ruins of a great aqueduct that stretched 10-15 miles from a fresh water source north of Caesarea down to the city. I’ve always heard that the aqueduct is one of the wonders of the ancient world, but seeing it up-close really confirmed that for me. Amazing!

After Jerusalem was destroyed in the 1st century AD, Caesarea became the capital of Israel. When Constantine “christianized” the roman empire in the 4th century, the Christians put an end to the theater and the games (races, gladiator battles, etc), and built churches in or on top of the amphitheaters. When the Muslims invaded in the 7th century, it was more of a cultural takeover, so (at least in Caesarea) there wasn’t much destruction of the existing buildings / architecture. And the crusades in the 12th and 13th century didn’t really change enough to worry about.

However, when Israel was reborn as a nation in 1948, Caesarea was covered in sand. Most of the ruins we saw today were uncovered and carefully excavated by the Jews after their nation was restored to them.

Another interesting note: the second largest library in the ancient world was in Caesarea. While the museum in Alexandria, Egypt was destroyed, the one in Israel survived and thrived during the Constantine era, helping to support Christianity as it spread throughout the known world. Very interesting!

But the most interesting thing about Caesarea for me was the rest of the story of Peter and Cornelius…

As a Roman centurion, Cornelius was the commander of 100 Roman soldiers (from the Latin, 100 = century). This was a very prestigious position. When Peter got to his home, he found that Cornelius had “called together his relatives and close friends”. According to our guide, this likely meant that he had gathered his family, friends, the 100 men who served under him, and their families. They would almost all have been gentiles.

When Peter entered the room, he immediately realized that these were not people with whom he should be socializing. But when Cornelius shared the vision he had had from God, Peter realized that his vision about unclean foods had really been about the gentiles. God had said, “Do not call unclean what the Lord has called clean.” So, Peter shared the gospel with them, and hundreds (ostensibly) came to a saving faith in Christ. And the movement to take the gospel to the entire world was born.

The most amazing aspect of this story is the global significance of this event. This was the last of 3 events that changed the world forever in terms of the spread of the gospel. First, Philip was sent by God to share the gospel with the Ethiopian Eunuch on the Gaza road in Acts 8. The Eunuch, a descendent of Noah’s first son Dan, believes in Christ and is saved.

In Acts 9, Saul is confronted by Jesus on the road to Damascus. Ananias faithfully preaches the gospel to him, the scales fall from his eyes (both literally and figuratively), and Saul becomes the mighty apostle Paul. Saul was a descendant of Shem, Noah’s second son.

And lastly we have Cornelius, who is a descendant of Noah’s third and last son, Japhath. In Acts 10, he too receives Christ as a result of Peter’s faithfulness. So, in three chapters of Acts we see the gospel spread to every tribe of the whole world. Amazing!

Every gentile Christian can trace his roots to one of these three events.

In addition to learning a lot of history about Israel and this place, as well as connecting it to the Bible, Gary Frazier, the Director of Discovery Ministries, our tour company, spoke to us to welcome us to Israel and orient us about the trip. He talked about how Paul – an impressively scholarly man – could have spoken on anything before Felix and Aggripa, but instead he chose simply to share his testimony, and bear witness to what God had done in his life. Read the story yourself in Acts to see. Gary emphasized how this is true of us as Christians in the 21st century as well. His point was basically that we shouldn’t try to be impressive or smart, but rather should simply share with others the love of Christ – both in our actions and in the words of our testimony, when we point others to what God has done for us. He then shared his story with us, prayed over us, and sent us out into our tour with the admonition to be focused less on buildings, history and architecture, and more on what God is doing in our lives.

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Tel Aviv

Tel Aviv

The bus left a few minutes after 8, despite the (I’d have to call them) threats from the Discovery Ministry folks that if we weren’t on the bus 10 minutes early we’d be left behind. Clearly they’re really softies. 😉

We drove through the streets of Tel Aviv, north of our hotel, heading for Caesarea. Tel Aviv is the capital of Israel, its largest city (by population), and the governmental and social and cultural center of the city. Our guide put it this way: the social rhythm of Israel is best represented there. Shopping, night life, food, etc. Jerusalem, on the other hand is the spiritual center of the nation. We’ll visit there at the end of the week.

An old section of Tel Aviv (just south of our hotel) is Jaffa (called Joppa in Biblical times). As we drove, we recanted the story of Peter’s staying with Simon the Tanner in Joppa in Acts 9-10. There, he saw a vision of unclean animals being lowered from heaven in a sheet, and an angel told him to take and eat. As a Jew, that was a serious violation of the law, so of course Peter was repulsed. However, God was orchestrating the spread of the gospel to the entire world, including the gentiles. Moments after his vision, three men showed up at Simon’s house – mess angers sent from a Roman centurion living in Caesarea named Cornelius. The men said to go with them, and the angel reinforced that he should, so Peter undertook the day long journey (it is about 35-40 miles) from Joppa to Caesarea.

Joppa, by the way, was also a center of commerce in ancient times. Among other things, this was the site where the cedars of Lebanon where received as they were shipped down the east coast of the Mediterranean sea to be transported to Jerusalem for the construction of Solomon’s temple.

Joppa is also the city from which Jonah set sail for Tarshish to rebel against God’s call to preach the gospel to Nineveh.

On the way to Caesarea, driving through Tel Aviv, our guide pointed out how people are constantly driving into the city. He made a point of being aghast at the horrible traffic driving south as we headed north out of town. Of course, I’m from Chicago, so it was nothing in my eyes, but for them, I guess it was a parking lot. The city seemed poorer than I expected. It looked like the kind of area in Chicago you wouldn’t want to go alone. I didn’t see any McDonald’s either. Both these things surprised me. It was fairly clean, though. It just looked run down and there were lots of vacant storefronts, etc. It was clear a lot of people lived in a small area, because everything was high rises. We also saw a lot of balcony gardens, and every room had a solar heating and power system on it. There wasn’t much in the way of modern architecture in Tel Aviv, but a little ways north we drove through “the Silicon Valley of Israel”, where I saw offices for Microsoft and a number of other high-tech companies. This was definitely a valley of glass and steel, but there wasn’t much of that in Tel Aviv.

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Even breakfast was exciting

Location: On the bus, ready to go

We got up and after dinner the night before (which blew my mind), my expectations for breakfast were a little higher than they probably should have been. But it too was amazing. There were breads and cheeses, croissants, lots of fish, vegetables, fruit, cereal, eggs, and of course lots of stuff I didn’t recognize.

Breakfast Breakfast Breakfast Breakfast Breakfast Breakfast Breakfast Breakfast

Jace and I tried to get a green bus table together in order to meet some of the folks who would be riding on our bus (there were 5 buses, all color-coordinated), but that didn’t work. Nobody had been on that bus together yet, so there was no bonding to create the table.

Instead, a family from the red bus joined us – parents, son, and daughter. I was thinking, “Wow, that’s expensive, but how cool to do this trip as a family!”. The son (16) Ross wants to be a UN translator someday. He says his first 2 languages he wants to learn are Farsee (an Arabic language) and Korean. He was an impressive kid I expect I’ll be reading about someday. The daughter (15) was so obviously a second child, and lived in the shadow of the first. She didn’t know what she wanted, was quiet and shy in her (almost) responses to my questions. Her dad even teased her about wanting to go to the mall when I asked what she was looking forward to the most on the trip. I felt sorry for her and wanted to help her, but of course no way to do that. Instead, much later, when Linday McCaul (our worship leader) showed up, I asked her if she’d make an effort to interact with / invest in this young girl. Lindsay is a 26 year old single woman who is absolutely amazing in her heart for God, so I figured it would be a good thing for her to have this young woman on her radar.

Knowing that our next hotel was in Tiberias on the Sea of Galilee, and that we wouldn’t be returning to the Tel Aviv airport until our departure, we were up at 6, bags in the hall and breakfast at 7, and on the bus ready to head north by 8.

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Humus, Baby!

Location: In my hotel room in Tel Aviv

As we gathered in the lobby for instructions from the tour guides upon arrival at the hotel, they told us that dinner tonight and breakfast tomorrow morning would be a buffet setting at the hotel. Dinner at 6:30PM. As I mentioned in a previous post, between getting settled in the room and dinner, we had taking a stroll along the Mediterranean sea. By the time 6:30 rolled around, I was starving! I was excited that dinner would be a buffet, but I didn’t really know what to expect.

We walked into the dining room and were greeted by a wall of food. I should have taken a picture, but didn’t. (Sorry! Maybe I’ll get breakfast.) There was chicken, fish, lamb, potatoes, green beans, a whole table full of salads, a table of breads, and a table of desserts. And of course, the humus. It was awesome! I had two big pretzel-like rolls and at least two big tablespoons of humus. I could have eaten that stuff for my whole meal.

A group of people from Harvest was good enough to invite me to sit with them, so that I didn’t sit alone. I was the only one at the table without my spouse, but I had a great time listening to all their banter back and forth. It was fun, and I very much appreciated their hospitality. Here’s a picture of our table.

Upon leaving, I had to sample the gelato. I tried the mango and the pineapple, and they were awesome. At the end of my first evening in Israel, I have to conclude that the food is AWESOME. I just wish Faith was here to share it with me. She too would be in heaven.

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Welcome to Israel!

Location: In my hotel room in Tel Aviv

We’re here! We landed in Israel pretty much right on time, about 17.5 hours after Faith and John dropped me off at O’Hare.

Hanging at O’Hare: 2.5 hours
Flight from Chicago to London: 7.5 hours
Layover in London (which took every minute we had – no free time there): 2.5 hours
Flight from London to Tel Aviv: 5 hours
Total: 17.5 hours

The Tel Aviv airport was small and efficient. We didn’t see much, because we made a bee-line for baggage claim. customs, then straight to the busses. By this time, I was getting pretty tired. I had met a very nice business guy on the flight to Tel Aviv, who sounded like he’d traveled all over the world. But the downside of our conversation was that it kept me up. By the time he turned to other things, I was utterly exhausted. I know I wasn’t a very good conversationalist as a result.

I got an hour or so nap, and then the guy in front of me slammed his seat back into my knees, and that was it for sleep. So, I watched the new G.I. Joe movie (which was fair), got a little more sleep (maybe 30 minutes), and read my way into Israel.

Welcome to Israel

After landing and getting on the bus, we rode 10 miles to the Dan Panorama hotel on the Mediterranean sea, between Joppa to the south and Tel Aviv to the north. Joppa was the site in 800 BC where the prophet Jonah had attempted to flee from God’s call to preach to Nineveh, the great urban center. He set sail from Joppa for Tarshish, was swallowed by a whale, and the spit back up in Joppa after learning to do what God said. From here, then he went to Nineveh. Years before that, Joppa was the port city that received the great cedars of Lebanon (to the north up the coast of the Med) that were used to build Solomon’s temple. Then after Jesus had ascended into heaven, Joppa is where the apostle Peter had his vision of the unclean foods being lowers by angels in a sheet, which ignited a new crusade to take the gospel to the gentiles.

By the time we got to the hotel at 5PM, it was almost dark. Add in the heavy clouds, and it made taking pictures almost impossible. But I was determined at least to explore a little bit of the area before dinner at 6:30, and the guide had said it would be perfectly save to check out the beach on the Mediterranean Sea just across the street from the hotel.

Before heading out, though, I stopped by the room, and met my roommate Jace. Because I’m hear without my amazing wife, I was assigned a roommate by Walk in the Word. Roommate roulette is always a little scary, but I immediately knew Jace would be a great roommate, and I was right.

We headed downstairs to wander the beach for a few. We joined up with a couple other folks I’d met at the airport the day before. We also met a large group of Harvest folks in the lobby who essentially came together and were already planning to explore the beach. Especially having a larger group assembled, we were ready to check out the surrounding area.

The beach was great. Clean, well-lit, great bike/jogging path. There were a number of runners and bikers out. Families were grilling on the beach. Stray cats were everywhere waiting for someone to drop something they’d just grilled or leave the grill unguarded. There was also a playground made of wood and ropes that John would of loved.

One slightly more random thing was that someone came tearing through the park riding a horse at a full-on gallop. That’s something you just wouldn’t see in the States. Between the playground and the horseback rider, I really missed my family.

But I did get to stick my toe in the waters of the Mediterranean. How cool is that!?

Okay, time for dinner.

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That’s the Sound of my Falling Off the Wagon

Location: In approach to London Heathrow

I forgot to call ahead about the food. Did I mention that I’m not nearly as disciplined at planning ahead as I hope to be someday? I didn’t plan to mention it, but I think I did. Sorry.

Anyway, so dinner on the plane… Pasta… good. Spinach… good. Cheesy gooey sauce… Haven’t put that in my body in like six months.

Breakfast on the plane… A danish. Period. That’s it. Well, and tea … I’m flying over the UK, so there’s always tea.

So, now the healthy snacks Faith packed for me are definitely making my morning. A banana never looked so good in my whole life.

Before I left, I committed that I wouldn’t record what I ate while away on this trip. After all, this trip is definitely going to be all about authentic Mediterranean food. YUM! So, instead of keeping my nutritional record, I’ll probably just put a big red X and footnote it with “1 cup olive oil”. I’m not sure my body is ready for this.

Net of this post… Pray for me that I don’t fall off the wagon, steal it, run a few folks over with it, and so forth.

Can you believe Faith said to me before I left, “I hope you’ve put on a few pounds by the time you get home.” I’ll take “Things I Never Thought I’d Hear in my Whole Life” for $800, Alex.

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